Pictures from my trip this weekend to Chukudum and Ikotos both in the mountains. The roads were INSANE - and it hadn't even rained in a while! It took us 2 hours to go the 43 km from the main road to Chukudum, and another 2 hours to do the 50 km from the main road to Ikotos. But breathtakingly beautiful in areas, an the birds were incredible.

the birds around here are amazing, but too quick to get good shots of!

One of the ethnic groups here, people called the Lutoku, live way on the top of the mountains/hills. I initally thought it was because of the war (when many people retreated to the hills to escape the fighting), but was told that this is their culture. Here are a few pictures of some of the hill-top villages. I can't imagine being a woman in this culture hiking the water, firewood and crops up to the top. They also keep their livestock up there - which is amazing to see.

Soldier family in Camp 15
On the way home we stopped in "Camp 15" which is the GTZ camp for the road, to meet with "CPA" dissemnators - these are people who have been trained by Pact to distribute the Comprehensive Peace Agreement to the community - and explain it in the local language. Unfortunatly, the ones we found were all drunk, so they couldn't give us a very clear picture of what they have been doing. We heard rumors in Kimatong that they sold the bicycles and tents they were given and have not done much. However, the team in Kapoeta is apparently very good.

Rains coming across the plains towards us, isn't there a song about this somewhere?
We got caught in the downpour driving home, but got out before the road was impassable.

Kimatong town water resevoir and Galcholo compound.

The community based organization that Pact partners with in Kimatong is called Galcholo. They have a lovely compound underneath a huge tree - connected to a school. Pact has helped to build a water resevoir for the town in the massive rock hill behind the town - which of course I had to climb (but not to the very top... rains were coming).

Buya young people.

When we passed a group of women in the river bed, our guide commented that many were widows, when I asked how he knew, he said that because they had their heads shaved and their decorations (beads) removed.

Visit to Kimatong in Budi County (Buya area)

My home in Kapoeta - Eastern Equatoria for the month of June 2006

grumpy today - the russian oil mafia staying in the camp here ate all the dinner - and I didn't have lunch.

But it was an amazing day. We went to the payam of Kimatong in the Buya hills about two and a half hours drive from here. Had yet another marriage offer Dad, they just keep coming - how many cows should I hold out for?

It is beautiful up there - green and lots of trees, and huge rock hills - sort of like the Nuba mountains. Will try to uploap pictures tomorrow. am going to go and try to scrounge something other than tuna from the kitchen staff.

I'm quite facinated with women's clothing here - I guess I'm aways facinated with clothing :-) but there seem to be two main types of outfits that the women wear; a short kilt-like skirt of different kinds of clothe, which I'm told was originally Buya (but now Toposa wear it too),and then the beaded goatskin skirts, which is Toposa. And of course the wrap knotted over one shoulder.

some of the chiefs/spiritual leaders speaking to the Toposa and Buya about ceasing cattle raiding, abducting children etc.

me teaching

People here LOVE cowboy hats... this chief arrived at the celebration with his chair carried by two little boys and was very careful the whole celebration that nothing happened to damage his red cowboy hat.

Here I am with some of the SNV staff at the celebration.

workshop on Monitoring and Evaluation

Erik Simba
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

This is Erik Simba, who works for a community based organization (CBO) that Pact supports to do peace building here in Eastern Equatoria. His organization works mainly with the conflict between the Toposa and the Buya ethnic groups. Here he is telling the rest of us about the Results (changes) that have occured because of their activitites, and the indicators that there really are changes, and that they are really as a result of the Pact support.

its been a fun workshop - a great group of people. However, we have to postpone our fieldwork for a week because of another workshop. This means I'm now going to be here in Kapoeta until June 30th, which is ok, as its a nice camp here and there is lots I can do the assist the team here.

women dancing at celebration

women dancing at celebration
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

This was from the celebration of the integration of the militia and the return of the raided cattle. The women got up and danced and sang, with the military looking on.

The woman in the forefront is wearing a beaded goatskin skirt - I thought the skirts were clothe at first they are so well finished.

Militia integration and return of raided Cattle

Militia and Cattle
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

This was from the celebration on Tuesday for the return of Toposa
cattle that were abducted by the Buya and integration of the militia into the Sudan People's Liberation Army (SPLA). Since the signing of the peace agreement last year, there are now three official (legal) armies in Sudan, the Sudan Armed Forces (SAF) which is the Khartoum army, the SPLA (formerly "rebels" or freedom fighters), and the joint forces, which is made up of both. All militias are suppose to join one of the three options, or be demobalized and disarmed. Some militias are resisting this, so it was exciting to see some joining the SPLA, their former enemies.

The ceremony started with the sacrifice of a white bull (in the
forefront), then the militia (the group behind in military uniform)
jumped over the sacrificed bull, and then the cattle that were being returned also jumped over the bull. This signifies that the conflict is over.

then there were lots of dances and speeches.

Toposa woman and child

Toposa woman and child
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

It is common to see Toposa women walking along smoking pipes.

Arrival in Lokichoggio

Arrival in Lokichoggio
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

Well, back in Lokichogio for a couple of days. I have to say it’s nice to have a real shower, especially one that doesn’t double as the men’s urinal! And to eat something other than meat… Murle love their meat – breakfast, lunch and supper, and some meals that is all there was. If I never see a goats’ intestine again I’ll be happy (not much chance, I head back to Sudan tomorrow).

But Loki feels a bit lonelier than the field for some reason. I miss having little Jeai come and dig though my belongings and ask me incomprehensible questions about what everything is. I don’t miss the scorpions.

But I have lots to get done in the next couple days; I am trying to finalize the report for Upper Nile before diving into the Eastern Equatoria stuff.

I leave tomorrow for Kapoeta. I’ll be doing a three-day workshop on Monitoring and Evaluation with the Pact staff, plus staff from the community based organizations they partner with on the ground. Most of my background in M&E is in the development side of things, so it’s a challenge to adapt my training materials, and wrap my head around, conflict resolution interventions. Having had the 10 days in Upper Nile helps a lot… but I think we are going to be learning together.

After the training workshop then I’m going to be evaluating their conflict resolution activities in Eastern Equatoria with their staff. There are two different programs I’ll be looking at, the Lauro Peace Process and the Buya-Toposa Peace Process.

Once that is done, then they’ve asked me to work with the teams to help set up the Early Warning System for monitoring conflict in the area. They have provided radios and thurayas (satellite phones) to the peace committees and peace monitors, but need to help set up the system of what exactly are the indicators that they should be monitoring.

All in all, its really interesting stuff, but pushing the boundaries of my previous experience for sure.

Leaving Gumuruk

Leaving Gumuruk
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

I believe this is Pibor river, it winds so much, that while by road its only 31 km between Pibor and Gumuruk, but by river its over 100 km.

Murle grandmother in front of tukul

Murle grandmother in front of Tukul
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

Kolbich calls these tukuls "elephants" and from a distance they do look like headless elephants! This woman was blind, but wanted to greet us when we walked by.

Murle young woman

Murle young woman
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

Apparently the beads she is wearing are from the Titi Zigri generation (my generation), but she is much younger than me, so it is her husband who is from that generation.

Me and Jeai

Me and Jeai
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

My curious neighbors Jeai, became my shadow for much of the time I was in Gumuruk. She was very curious about everything I owned, and especially loved to see herself show up on my computer when I took her photo. I asked if she goes to school and she told me school is bad… I tried to change her mind. She seemed very bright and inquisitive.

Murle girls in Gumuruk market

Murle girls in Gumuruk market
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

abducted child

abducted child
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

Chief Gayien Thodouch and abducted child

Chief Gayien Thodouch and abducted child
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

The Peace Committee youth (called the Anti-Corruption Unit) were monitoring the Murle-Toposa border when they came across some raiders carrying this little girl. The girl was thrown down when they challenged the raiders and left behind. She was too young to speak at the time, and so it is unknown what community she belongs to. While her parents are being sought, Chief Gayien is taking care of her – she calls him grandfather and is obviously very attached to him.

Presbyterian church in Gumuruk

Presbyterian church in Gumuruk
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

Murle children

Murle children
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

boy soldiers

boy soldiers
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

There were so many child soldiers in Gumuruk. These boys came to
attention when I walked by and called out for a picture. I discovered
later that the shelter they were under is a school built by the
Presbyterian church to provide them with an education until they can
be returned home. However, I was also told that the boys are now paid a salary, so many don't want to be demobalized.

SLPA Military Trainer

SLPA Military Trainer
Originally uploaded by joodmc.

This man trains the SPLA troops, after posing for me he broke into a
huge smile – wish I could have caught it, he seems so much more gentle and less intimidating